Hospice du Grand Saint Bernard, ski trip

Sam’s 40th, a walk up to the Hospice followed by an enlightening evening. The ski tour the next day was made more memorable by the legendary winds that whistle through the pass. The forecast was for 70 km/hr winds and -10C. That is just how it felt!

Hospice du Grand Saint Bernard from Gareth Jefferies on Vimeo

It is the easiest way across this bit of the Alps, there is evidence the pass has been in use since the Bronze Age. The first hostel (hospice, I don’t think it is a Monastery, that’s down the valley) was set up by Bernard of Methon 1000 yrs ago.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bernard_of_Menthon

The hospice was only ever set up as a shelter and rescue post run by 4 monks. It’s a very inhospitable spot but as the only crossing point it was used even in the depths of winter. Apparently there was quite a trade in guiding services, not only is the path threatened by avalanches but in those days bandits too. The Hospice provided guiding for free and mountain rescue when required, also free lodging and food. The tunnel was built in the late 50’s that bypassed it, this messed up the raison d’être for the Hospice so now it has turned itself into a commercial venture and “retreat” for religious teaching. It is still manned by mountaineers – that also wear habits and pray a lot. As it can cater for over 100 people there are other staff there too, though they are all into the outdoors. Their motto is something like “Welcome, safety, nourishment” and you still get free tea. They still don’t turn anyone away – I’m fairly sure that you can stay for free as well. It’s funny but although certain aspects of the hospice are thoroughly modern (there was a very professional audio visual presentation after dinner – where I gleaned these facts) they still will only let people stay who have arrived under their own steam. So no “tourists” can stay in the summer! Only people who have toiled over the mountains to reach them.

A really brilliant spot. Worth a few days stay – cheap too at 40 euros a night for a bedroom, dinner and breakfast.

You can book on +41 27 787 12 36, you will need to call between 1000-1130hrs and 1500-1730hrs.